Red Star Belgrade in Tifo Stickers and Graffiti

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The Råsunda’s Last Hurrah (AIK)

When one of FIFA’s official ten classic world stadiums was having its last game, I felt compelled to be there. Even if AIK (Allmänna Idrottsklubben) somehow qualify out of their Europa League Group F, the first knockout round home tie would be played at their new home in the Friends Arena, all shiny and new and with a liberal splashing of UEFA-sanctioned santiser no doubt.

A little over 75 years old the curtain comes down on the Råsunda Stadion, a much loved institution, it’s 36,000 capacity deemed too low for UEFA’s liking and Sweden’s hosting of the 2013 Women’s European Championship. Situated in the suburb of Solna, the stadium is a saucy melange of single tier, double tier and triple tier stands the result of periodic piecemeal redevelopment. The miniature roof mounted floodlight pylons are redolent of the white plastic Subbuteo lights that allowed evening kick offs on the hallowed green baise of my childhood.

I wondered what the atmosphere would be like on the final encounter, would it be a teary farewell or would there even protests against moving to the Friends Arena. After scaling the stairs to the vertiginous upper tier of the North Stand, I realised it would be neither, AIK were in the mood for a party to send the Råsunda off in style. Banners lay at the front of the stand and every seat had its appropriate piece of coloured plastic waiting for lifting at the appropriate moment.

Just before kick off the decibel level rose, AIK anthems were sung ever more lustily and the “Legends of Råsunda” banners enveloped the upper tier. Fireworks crackled and soared into the cold night sky. It was a total joy to be part of it.

The match was almost secondary to the occasion, Edison Cavani, the star Napoli striker, lissom of movement and fleet of foot, spoilt the occasion somewhat by bagging an injury time winner.

It was terribly sad to see tractors and demolition gear lined up outside, preparing to raze this historic stadium to the ground with seemingly indecent haste. However, AIK sent the Råsunda to its imminent demise in fine style. Now one more time, with feeling!…Na na na na, Na na na na, hey hey hey Aw Ee Koi!

A.I.K. (1) 1 (Danielsson 35) SCC Napoli (1)2 (Dzemaili 20,Cavani 90+4)



27.Ivan Turina; 16.Martin Lorentzson; 3.Per Karlsson; 2.Niklas Backmann; 4.Nils-Eric Johansson(c); 15.Robin Quaison; 20.Ibrahim Moro; 7.Helgi Danielsson; 28.Viktor Lundberg; 10.Celso Borges; 75.Mohamed Bangura.

Subs: 5.Robert Ahman Persson; 6.Daniel Tjernström; 13.Kenny Stamatopoulos; 22.Kwame Karikari (for 15,76 mins); 24.Daniel Gustavsson; 29.Gabriel Özkan; 45.Daniel Majstorovic.


22.Antonio Rosati; 55.Alessandro Gamberini; 5.Salvatore Aronica (c); 5.Miguel Britos; 16.Giandomenico Mesto; 4.Marco Donadel; 85.Valon Behrami; 8.Andrea Dossena; 20.Blerim Dzemaili; 7.Edinson Cavani; 9.Eduardo Vargas.

Subs: 1.Morgan De Sanctis; 11.Christian Maggio; 13.Omar El Kaddouri; 17.Marek Hamšík (for 20,73 mins); 18.Juan Zuniga (for 16,64 mins); 28.Paolo Cannavaro; 88.Gokan Inler (for 4,62 mins).

Yellow cards: Backmann and Moro (AIK), Cavani and Behrami (Napoli)

Red card: Aronica (Napoli)


And the morning after the night before

Pigeons or Fighters (Hajduk Beograd)

After the craziness of the derby, the Sunday morning fixture in the Serbian Srpska Liga (Belgrade Area) could have been a case of after the Lord Mayor’s Show. The third tier fixture between FK Hajduk Lionu and FK Zemun took place at the Stadion Hajduka na Lionu, home of “The Pigeons” since 1953. Pigeons seemed a somewhat of an ill-fitting nickname for a Serbian football team, however, Hajduk itself translates as “fighters” so maybe this is more suitable.

The ground itself is interesting, hemmed in at both ends by flats, tall nets preventing balls landing on residents’ balconies. The near side has a smart clubhouse, dressing rooms and a scaffolding and wooden plank stand which was rammed for this 11.00am match. Opposite is a pitch length uncovered terrace, the left hand end being segregated with its own entrance for visiting fans. Zemun’s supporters arrived just before kick-off and in impressive numbers. Their match-long singing would preclude any possibility of a lie in for the local residents. There was edginess to their chanting, local reports of anger at the release of a Croatian warmonger was said to be the cause of their ire. The Zemun fans covered the fencing with colourful banners including one of, presumably, a heavily bearded Serb leader.

The Pigeons started the stronger and took the lead early on when full back Hema Tolovic lashed in a powerful strike. This goal separated the sides at the break. Zemun grew into the game, their young coach loudly berating his charges. His voluble instructions and the constant support of their ultras had the desired effect when skipper Nikola Rnic curled in an unstoppable free kick. Zemun looked like they were in the ascendancy and this was borne out when Rnic’s free kick was nodded in by centre back Borislav Terevic. The Zemun coach ran on the pitch to celebrate with his players, only to be ordered from the bench by the punctilious referee. This caused several moments of comedy when first a security guard and then an elderly Hajduk supporter stood in front of him to ensure he complied with the referee’s wishes. Like a caged tiger he paced at the back of the stand until the final whistle.

The whistle sounded and the Zemun players joined their supporters to celebrate a deserved victory over the course of the 90 minutes.

FK Hajduk Lionu Beograd (1)1 (Tolovic 13) FK Zemun (0)2 (Rnic 73, Terevic 84)

Attendance: 400 (approx)


Dragoslav Poleksic; Hema Tolovic; Philip Belak; Milan Nisnic; Predrag Topuvic; Marko Tepavievic (c); Aleksandr Stamenkovic; Dejan Filipov; Ernes Dalifi; Bojan Bazhovic and Zdravko Kovacevic.

Subs: Milan Pantelic; Marko Zhivkovic (for Stamenkovic,46 mins); Sasa Paunovic (for Kovacevic,79 mins); Zoran Curic; Sasa Filipovic; Igor Milovic; Marko Vujovic.


Bojan Knezevic; Milos Zivkovic; Marko Rajovic; Nikola Rnic (c); Mirko Vunevievic; Borislav Terevic; Milos Terevic; Milos Malovac; Nikola Vukailovic; Nikola Moisilovic; Igor Miladinic and Dino Dolmajic.

Subs: Marko Pavlovic; Marko Divjak; Monsto Stojakovic; Philip Savic (for Moisilovic,88 mins); Stefan Okrebo (for Dolmajic,58 mins); Dejan Vukojevic; Goran Vukovic (for Vunevievic,63 mins).


The Eternal Derby

My write up and gallery for the Eternal Derby, Red Star v Partizan in Belgrade on Saturday will be exclusively featured in Issue 3 of the superb Stand AMF fanzine, available from from December 6th at the ridiculous price of £2.

In the meantime here are statistics from the game and a few pictures as a preview.

FK Crvena Zvezda (1)3 (Kasalica 14, Milivojevic 49, Milijas 74)  FK Partizan (2)2 (Mitrovic 9, Jovanovic o.g. 16)

Attendance: 44,155

Red Star:

1.Bojan Bajkovic; 15.Milan Jovanovic; 14. Nikola Mikic; 25. Filip Mladenovic; 5. Uros Spajic; 10. Nenad Milijas (c); 8.Darko Lazovic; 19.Luka Milivojevic; 4.Srdan Mijailovic; 17.Filip Kasalica; 91.Ognjen Mudrinski.

Subs: 29.Marko Vesovic (for 14,46 mins); 16.Luka Milunovic (for 8,68 mins); 7.Milos Dimitrijevic (for 10,85 mins).


30.Nikola Petrovic; 18. Aleksandar Lazevski; 2.Aleksandar Miljkovic; 15.Ivan Ivanov; 40.Milos Ostojic; 22.Sasa Ilic (c); 99.Milan Smiljanic; 7.Nemanja Tomic; 21.Sasa Markovic; 50.Lazar Markovic; 45.Aleksandar Mitrovic.

Subs: 39.Milos Jojic (for 7,65 mins); Stefan Scepovic (for 22,80 mins), Nikola Ninkovic (for 50;85 mins).

Yellow cards: Mladenovic, Milivojevic, Mijailovic, Kasalica (Crvena Zvezda); Smiljanic, L.Markovic, Mitrovic (Partizan).


Heroes and Gravediggers (FK Crvena Zvezda)

So the Lav is slipping down a treat in the Three Carrots in Knesa Milosa when Nenad, an affable Red Star fanatic, hands me my ticket for the derby match tonight, “Don’t worry it’s free” he says when I look to pay him. “How’s it free I ask?”, “Ah, tickets they appear like magic here”. Soon we pile onto a bus downtown and within minutes we are at the Stadion Crvena Zvezda, an hour before the 7pm kick off and it’s loud already inside and out. There is, of course, a heavy police presence but I see no trouble and do not feel intimidated in the slightest, everybody is just excited.

Everything is in place for a night to remember, giant old school eastern-bloc floodlights loom over the proceedings and the atmosphere builds. The Delije (“Heroes”) are gathered in vast numbers in the north stand and their bitter rivals the Grobari (“Gravediggers”) are at the other end. The south stand has been shorn of its seats so the visitors cannot throw them onto the pitch. What is noticeable is that there are two sectors of the Partizan fans, the bulk of the Grobari are under the electronic scoreboard but to their right and separated by an empty sector and lines of riot police and stewards are a smaller section, the Zabranjeni (The Forbidden), a group of outcast Grobari excommunicated in 2011 for the treacherous crime of accusing the Grobari hierarchy of turning police informant and of stealing money earmarked for tifo displays.

The players emerge from the underground tunnel and this acts as the cue for the Delije to start their spectacular tifo display. Flares so numerous the entire end appears at times to be on fire and beautiful, powerful fireworks are propelled into the night sky from launchers at the front of the stand. Soon however Red Star fall behind, they cannot lose this, a defeat will see them fall eleven points behind Partizan. It’s the Grobari’s turn to get the pyrotechnics going, though they seem more intent on exchanging flares with the Zabranjeni. The home side level with a superb volley, only to fall behind to a comedic own goal moments later. Jesus, 17 minutes gone and you can barely take it all in.

Red Star level the encounter just after the break and when the match looks like a stalemate, the home skipper knocks in the winner. The stadium literally erupts and the noise levels increase further still. The Delije rub salt into the Partizan wounds by unveiling a Grobari banner which they had previously stolen and taunting their rivals by singing “This is yours, come and take it back”. The match ends and it is notable that the Delije and the Grobari are let out at the same time, the Zabranjeni, however, remain locked in their sector at least an hour after the final whistle.

So that was the 143rd edition of the “Eternal Derby”. What was notable from this epic clash was sensible refereeing, no booking players for celebrating with their fans. Also the security and policing was heavy, but low key and effective. Of course, more than anything, the colour and the noise will live with me always. For Belgrade, Red Star and Partizan, do a derby match as well as anyone in the world, unbridled passion, noise and above all fun. Just like football was always supposed to be.

(A version of this article also appears in the third edition of the outstanding magazine Stand AMF. For great football writing and photos, please visit

FK Crvena Zvezda (1)3 (Kasalica 14, Milivojevic 49, Milijas 74) FK Partizan (2)2 (Mitrovic 9, Jovanovic o.g. 16)

Attendance: 44,155

Red Star:

1.Bojan Bajkovic; 15.Milan Jovanovic; 14. Nikola Mikic; 25. Filip Mladenovic; 5. Uros Spajic; 10. Nenad Milijas (c); 8.Darko Lazovic; 19.Luka Milivojevic; 4.Srdan Mijailovic; 17.Filip Kasalica; 91.Ognjen Mudrinski.

Subs: 29.Marko Vesovic (for 14,46 mins); 16.Luka Milunovic (for 8,68 mins); 7.Milos Dimitrijevic (for 10,85 mins).


30.Nikola Petrovic; 18. Aleksandar Lazevski; 2.Aleksandar Miljkovic; 15.Ivan Ivanov; 40.Milos Ostojic; 22.Sasa Ilic (c); 99.Milan Smiljanic; 7.Nemanja Tomic; 21.Sasa Markovic; 50.Lazar Markovic; 45.Aleksandar Mitrovic.

Subs: 39.Milos Jojic (for 7,65 mins); Stefan Scepovic (for 22,80 mins), Nikola Ninkovic (for 50;85 mins).

Yellow cards: Mladenovic, Milivojevic, Mijailovic, Kasalica (Crvena Zvezda); Smiljanic, L.Markovic, Mitrovic (Partizan).


Ultra Boys Memorial


Match programme

Match ticket

Friendly Fire

A look at ten Southend United friendly programmes for no other reason except they are a bit unusual.

May 4th 1970

Southend United (0)0 AC Fiorentina (1)1

The Blues welcomed the reigning Italian champions to Roots Hall at the end of the 1969/70 season. A healthy crowd of 8,679 saw Giorgio Mariani score the only goal of the game to give the visitors a victory.

Team: Brian Lloyd; Keith Lindsey; Owen Simpson; Phil Chisnall; Dave Barnett; Micky Beesley; Peter Hunt (sub Peter Taylor); Billy Best; Bill Garner; Gary Moore and Dave Chambers (sub Pack).

August 10th 1970

Southend United (1)5 Accra Hearts of Oak SC (1)1

Three months later the Blues welcomed Hearts of Oak to Roots Hall. The programme features Stanley Matthews on the cover as he had been coaching in the West African country. A crowd of 3,193 watch Blues run riot in the second half with goals from Phil Chisnall (2), Billy Best, Bill Garner and Peter Hunt.

Team: Brian Lloyd (sub Steel); Keith Lindsey; Owen Simpson; Phil Chisnall; Alex Smith; Kevin Fallon (sub Dave Barnett); Ian Cowan; Billy Best; Bill Garner; Tony Bentley (sub Peter Hunt) and Dave Chambers.

August 5th 1971

Shinnik Yarosavl (1)1 Southend United (0)0

A bit of an oddity this one as the last game of the Blues tour to Russia produced two programmes, both 4 page issues but with different covers. A decent crowd of 12,000 watched this match.

Team: John Roberts; Keith Lindsey; Alex Smith; Dave Elliott; Brian Albeson; Joe Jacques; Terry Johnson (sub Peter Taylor); Billy Best; Bill Garner; George Duck and Ray Ternent.


November 6th 1972

Southend United (1) 1 Zenit Leningrad (1)1

Blues’ tour to Russia the previous year had been so successful a promised visit from a top Russian side occured when Zenit Leningrad came to Roots Hall. A crowd of 3,988 saw a tight encounter with Bobby Bennett netting for the Shrimpers. Luton Town’s Robin Wainwright guested for Southend.

Team: Derek Bellotti; Dennis Booth; Ray Ternent; Dave Elliott; Brian Albeson; Mike Harrison; Terry Johnson; Billy Best; Bobby Bennett; Robin Wainwright and Peter Taylor (sub Gary Moore).

August 9th 1974

Southend United (3)7 Bonner Sport Club (0)0

Southend welcomed West German side Bonner to Roots Hall in the build up to the 1974/75 campaign. The visitors were a modest club and only 1,686 watched the Blues rattle in seven goals without reply. Finding the net for Southend were Chris Guthrie (2), Dave Cunningham, Steve Lamb, Terry Johnson, Neil Townsend and a Dave Elliott penalty.

Team: Malcolm Webster; Steve Dyer; Dave Worthington; Dave Elliott; Neil Townsend; Alan Moody; Stuart Brace (sub Steve Lamb); Andy Ford (sub Terry Johnson); Chris Guthrie; Dave Cunningham and Alistair Love (sub Willie Coulson).

August 4th 1975

Hamilton Academicals (0)0 Southend United (1)1

Tours to Scotland in the mid Seventies were very popular and Southend were no exception, this pre-season jaunt also taking in games at Forfar Athletic, East Stirlingshire and Raith Rovers. A crowd of 650 saw a Stuart Parker goal separate the sides at the old Douglas Park ground.

Team: Malcolm Webster; Dave Worthington; Tony Taylor; Terry Nicholl; Neil Townsend; Alan Moody; Ronnie Pountney; Stuart Brace; Stuart Parker; Willie Coulson and Dave Cunningham (sub Andy Ford).

August 12th 1983

Southend United (0)0 Japan International XI (0)1

Visitors from the Far East for this unusual pre-season game. Southend battled well against Japan but went down 1-0 to a 51st minute goal from Masafumi Yokoyama.

Team: Mervyn Cawston; Micky Stead; Steve Collins; Paul Clark; Steve Yates; Ronnie Pountney; Glen Skivington; Glenn Pennyfather; Greig Shepherd; Steve Phillips and Roy McDonough. Subs: Warren May; John Keeley; Mick Angus; Danny Greaves and Adrian Owers.

August 3rd 1988

Pollok (2)2 Southend United (2)3

Southend had a short tour of Scotland in the pre-season on 1988/89 which also took in a return visit to Hamilton Academicals. The first match was against junior side Pollok who played, and still do, at the excellent Newlandsfield Park in Glasgow. A respectable crowd of 1,200 watched a tight encounter with Southend’s goals coming from David Crown and a brace from Dave Matthews.

Team: Paul Sansome (sub Eric Steele); Danny O’Shea; Peter Johnson (sub Justin Edinburgh); Russell Short; Dave Martin; Paul Brush (sub Paul Clark); Derek Hall (sub Nicky Thurston); Peter Butler; David Crown (sub Dave Matthews); Richard Young and Martin Robinson.

June 30th 2006

Bermuda National XI (1)2 Southend United (0)3

Billed as a welcome home match for Shaun Goater, Southend played the national team of his home county at their National Sports Park. Goater played a half for either side, scoring twice for the Blues along with youngster James Lawson.

Team: Daryl Flahavan; Simon Francis; Che Wilson; Spencer Prior; Adam Barrett; Jamal Campbell-Ryce; Mitchell Cole; Kevin Maher; James Lawson (sub.Shaun Goater); Freddy Eastwood and Franck Moussa.

July 28th 2012

Real Madrid C (1) 3 Southend United (1)1

Played at the Spanish giants Valdedebas training facility Southend took on Real’s third team who compete in the third tier, Segunda B, of the Spanish League. Neil Harris gave the Blues a third minute lead but the hosts eased to a 3-1 win with goals from Ramirez, Mariano (penalty) and Burgui.

Team: Phil Smith; Sean Clohessy (sub Dave Martin); Anthony Straker (sub Luke Prosser); Kane Ferdinand; Ryan Cresswell (sub Graham Coughlan);  Mark Phillips (sub Chris Barker); Kevan Hurst (sub Elliot Benyon); Ryan Leonard; Neil Harris; Gavin Tomlin (sub Freddy Eastwood) and Stephen Brogan (sub Ryan Hall). Sub not used: Daniel Bentley.